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Sweet Kerala

Writer's picture: Heather KirkbyHeather Kirkby

Arriving in India was a cultural gear shift from Africa. We experienced everything in contrast to Africa (not America) which was cool - different accents, foods, smells but the same crazy driving scene. Maybe even nuttier, hard to say. Same, same but different. Except everyone seems to be doing OK here, which I did not feel in Africa. Interestingly they both have about the same population and a lot of colonial history. India’s independence from England dates back to 1947. Traveling makes me so history-curious. I knew nothing when I first came here. I remember crying reading Freedom at Midnight. I did not know that Pakistan and Bangladesh were born at the time of independence. I did not know the forced partition was one of the most violent migrations in history with massacres and deaths of up to 2 million people. I did not even know the forced partition had happened. I cannot wrap my head around it but understanding these countries in their historical context is essential.



I came to India (Rajasthan) almost exactly thirty years ago with my best friend from college. It was a cultural gear shift then but wildly harder as I remember it, stepping for the first time into the developing world. Everything felt so foreign and chaotic and dirty and unsafe as I recall. It took weeks to feel comfortable. Many more weeks to fall in love with this magical country. India to me is one of a kind: its vast geography, religions, food, clothes, customs, languages and more. So much variety and at the same time so distinctly Indian. I’m happy to be back.


We’re doing a small loop in Kerala, a vast distance from where I’d been before. It’s a lesser populated region compared to the crowded centers farther north. I have been curious about southern India for a long time. It has a reputation for its beauty, its greenery, for being less chaotic, for its food and hills and water with ocean and inland estuaries, sometimes called “Vienna of the south”.


After quickly escaping Kochi (Cochin) we headed into the western ghats near Vagamon. We’re at an old heritage plantation house nestled in the hills. The third generation of the family is running the place. They turned it into a small guesthouse about 25 years ago with eight rooms. It’s super low key and lovely, full of the warmest hospitality. All the food is made onsite, much of it local, and it is off the charts delicious. So many spices. The baker has a little outdoor space and he is constantly playing chill American Country music. It is such a vibe. For me, Indian food is 100% a big part of experiencing India. I wouldn’t say that about anywhere else we’ve been despite having all kinds of great food around the world so far. India just does food differently.




We’ve been going on little adventures from this home base. After our big guided trip in Kenya, and volunteering in Tanzania, it’s nice to be back to just-our-family-gang again. For one, we have more agency over our day plans!! Sleeping in is an option again ;) or lounging all afternoon to do nothing or something or reboot homeschool. I am, after all, a fourth grade teacher this year. We did some local pilgrim hikes, one Christian and one Muslim, and soaked in this beautiful hill country. We visited a Catholic Monastery and a tea factory. The folks at the guesthouse were quite keen that we see it all.




We went to an amazingly peaceful rock pool. Had to get a guy with a jeep to take us there. He pointed out coffee trees, cacao plants, rubber trees, pepper trees. Nothing better than cold river water on hot days.



Justin and I even went on a few hikes, just the two of us! Hot dates in the Kerala hills.


And everywhere we went, stunning flowers!!!



And plants!! Featured below: Tea plantation, Coffee (with ants), Pepper x2, Tapioca, and Rubber trees.



Bye Bye Vanilla County!! Thank you!!





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