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Surf Goddess

Writer: Heather KirkbyHeather Kirkby

Today I was really uninterested in the warrior, rushed, frantic energy coming from one of our surf instructors. Power to him and those who thrive off that energy. But that is not my relationship with the ocean and with surfing. So I peeled away to find my space. Later, when my mind had time to wander I realized I’ve never had a woman surf teacher. I’ve had lessons in Half Moon Bay CA, Baja Mexico, Tofino BC, Imsouane Morocco and now Varkala India, and maybe other places too. 100% taught by men. It’s bananas really. Professionally, same thing. Nearly 100% of my managers were men in a nearly 30 year career. I briefly reported to a woman once, in my 40’s. Also bananas. And that’s on the heels of massive progress in the past few generations. So I wonder sometimes what it would be like for everyone to live in Opposite World for a day. Maybe VR goggles could do the trick. The Barbie movie was a lighthearted manifestation of an extreme (and intentionally flawed) version of Opposite World. Younger generations give me hope. I see all kinds of people showing up in new places and representation shifting before my eyes. I remember several years ago I was boarding a small plane in Utah, to fly up river with the kids to spend the next 5 days floating down it. The pilot was a young woman. I pointed out that it was awesome. The kids’ gave me a hard time, which I loved. Their point was anybody can be anything (we’re not quite there yet, but love the spirit) and I wouldn’t be pointing it out if it was a guy (true). So while I’m not a surf goddess (yet) maybe I’ll find one someday to teach me. And I’m pretty sure I don’t even have to go to Opposite World to find her.


Speaking of surf goddesses:



Beach time with the kids:



Ready for post-surf scrambled eggs and omelets!! Surf boards on tuk-tuks make me smile everytime.



The peaceful street vibes near our place:



Kerala vibes:



Hard to believe that we are heading to Japan in a few days. Then we’ll settle down for a while in Western Australia for a much-needed home base and change of pace. I think we all have energy to do a few more weeks on the road. Luckily that’s the plan!! Plus we’re so ridiculously excited about Japan.


I fell in love with India 30 years ago. I still feel the chaotic and deep beauty of this place. India is a marvel to me. Its vast and unique geography, colors, food, religions. The fact it all kind of works with a bajillion people living here is a small miracle. The fact there is so much peace to be found in the chaos is another small miracle. Arriving here after two months in Africa put this visit in such a different perspective. Everything seems gentler, easier, safer in India than in Africa. No barbed wire, fences, gates, security, guns, bigger guns, even sticks, to protect everyone from everyone and everything. So we’re comfortable in a way that would have never been possible had we arrived directly from the first world. It’s such a gift. Of course we’re wildly grateful for all the time we spent in Africa, it was beautiful, amazing, profoundly impactful - and - less safe.


I left India in a rush 30 years ago. My Dad died on February 11. It is a coincidence that exactly 30 years later I would find myself in India again on February 11. A few times that day I quietly thought “Mum, don’t die” just in case the universe takes parents from me on February 11 when I’m in India. My Mum did not die on February 11. My Mum had a heart attack on February 11. She is OK thank goodness. But sheesh Universe, that was scary. Grateful for the Doctor Goddess that started her shift at 8am and correctly diagnosed my Mum, after the night crew kept dismissing it and her mild symptoms. Sheesh to all you systems designed by men, for men. Sigh. Most importantly, my Mum is alive!! I love you Mum!!


Bye bye India!!

J had a big rad breakthrough surf session on the last day. He rode the big local waves like a champ. This is our family celebration!!!



 
 
 

1 Comment


Once again wonderful photos giving us a sense of what you are doing.

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