We’re in Varkala, on the coast of Kerala, India. Chilling, surfing, eating, doing yoga, rinsing & repeating. We’re staying at a place that directly overlooks the Indian Ocean. We are much more well versed in navigating hot climates now. We’ve slid back into the backpacker and traveler world after being away from it since … well, since Imsouane, the surf town in Morocco.
It’s a beach break here. We jam into cars and tuk-tuks in the early morning to find the best surf. It’s very chill. I love all the “ancillary” bits of surfing too, especially sitting on the board staring at the vast ocean between sets. That luxury never happened in Morocco because we were always on the inside of a point break. Yeah I’m the surfer that complains about non-stop waves ;) And speaking of “ancillary”, we stop at a roadside chai shop on the way home, every day. It serves fried lentil fritters and some kind of deep fried banana bread ball. The perfect post-surf nom-noms. And yes, one of the surf hotel cars is an Ambassador, “King of the Indian Roads”. So classic.
Here’s a pic of Justin popping up. I am sort of fascinated by the progression in some of these extraordinarily-slow-learning-curve to-me sports. Wing foiling would be the other one. There are two things I am noticing with surfing right now. One, I notice I really don’t think about a single other thing. I am wholly present. My mind doesn’t wander. Maybe that is the whole point. Two, I simply feel more comfortable. I’m probably marginally better but I feel like it’s my place out there. As a lifelong swimmer it’s funny it took so long but waves can trash and humble you. At the end of today’s session I went body surfing for a while and it was ridiculously fun. Grinning ear to ear as I swam into sweet shore break. I am a swimmer first.
Took a tuk-tuk to get ice cream. Was a fancy tuk-tuk. Hazel approved. Oh, and the romper-from-Catalonia that was donated in Nairobi has been replaced by a romper-from-Varkala. It’s so similar that Justin didn’t even notice I had a new romper. My style is consistent!!!
To say Hazel can do extraordinary things with her face is an understatement. She is hilarious and it’s a joy to bear witness to her humor, physical and otherwise.
Listened to another chapter of Eckhart Tolle on the way here. Felt like a sign to arrive in our room and hear the message repeated back to me. Right over the bed no less.
Now.
Also Now. Life is Good.
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