One morning Justin sent me a google map link to the Gazi Women Mangrove Boardwalk. He’d had an itch to go inland. It ended up being a remarkable outing in wholly unexpected ways. We both assumed it was just going to be a short family walk.
In the late afternoon, Davis showed up to drive us to the Boardwalk. A brief side tangent about Davis before the Mangrove tales. In Africa all you need is one trusted connector. Our person is Biggie. Biggie connects us to activities, to drivers, even to doctors (ear infection, ugh, but < $30 USD for appointment + antibiotics + probiotics). Biggie connected us with Davis. So Davis has driven us several times, to several places, when a tuk-tuk won’t cut it. Davis has a Bob Marley vibe. He wears a big reggae knit hat that must be hiding loads of hair. He drives a Toyota something and the seats are all covered in thick striped cotton shawls. Very colorful. A copy of “The Brothers Karamazov” by Dostoevsky is always stuffed in between the front seats.
The outing became remarkable from the start. All of a sudden we were driving away from the beach, away from the town center, and we realized we’re actually staying on the edge of a village that is mostly very poor. It was visible to some degree given the shanty stores right outside our villa. Perhaps it was the breadth of it that was surprising. The entire drive to the Boardwalk felt like cultural immersion. Felt like bearing witness to even more Kenya. And maybe because we’ve been living a comfortable pool and ocean life it was especially jarring to see so many people living in such different conditions. The perspective feels so important. It feels central to the reasons for coming to Africa in the first place. The drive home felt equally impactful. Of course it was the exact same drive. It helped the realities marinate and sink in further.
So many buildings with mud walls and metal or grass roofs as we bask in an air conditioned villa.
I loved everything about the Mangrove Walk. I loved that Davis joined us too. Quietly he just followed us to the trailhead, and then continued. For all I know Biggie told him to look after us. “The Brothers Karamazov” can wait for another day. I loved that the whole thing is actually a very coordinated effort to protect the Mangroves and support the community, orchestrated by multiple NGO’s with a group of local women. I loved that the walk was guided. The guide had a ton of knowledge. Clearly this group of women put a lot of care and thought into the operation. On a short walk there was a lot to see: five or six different kinds of Mangroves, hermit crabs zooming around, and little thatched rest stops where they sometimes host birthday parties!!
Per the Coastal Wiki (yes, it’s a thing!!) Mangroves are the only trees that are capable of thriving in salt water. They form unique intertidal forests at the edge of land and sea. Mangroves protect coastlines, endangered species and act as natural ocean barriers.
The outing to the Mangroves gave us all a lot to think about. At dinner we each shared something for which we’re grateful, and a hope for 2025. It was New Year’s Eve. Justin posted this the next day on IG, which I loved.
Parting shots below from the Kenyan Inland Coast from out the window of Davis’ car. Our kids don’t love it when I take photos of strangers without permission. Cows yes, people no. I get it, acknowledging their POV here. I do restrain myself as a result of their influence!! We head to Nairobi tomorrow then further north.
And one parting family shot. Will and Hazel’s faces are priceless. We had a pretty good shot but Will’s eyes were closed, so I asked for more and everything went classically downhill - or uphill if silly family photos are your jam :)
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